Monday, November 25, 2013

Pepperment Bark in cookie cutters

I found these cute, sturdy cookie cutters at the grocery store (also sold at Michael’s if you need an excuse to go there and check out the fun Christmas stuff!) – you can use any type of cutter, but 1) the price was exceptional for these ($0.99 each!!) and 2) they seemed like they would hold up better to being in the freezer for a while (read on, you’ll see what I mean!)
OK, so…get your cookie cutters all lined up. Wash them if you need to, but for the love of all things crafty, DRY THEM THOROUGHLY!!!!
While you’re waiting on the cutters to dry, gather your supplies -
  • vanilla candy coating/bark/whatever you want to call it
  • candy canes, crushed into small pieces (but not totally pulverised into a fine powder!)
  • peppermint extract
  • vegetable oil
  • glass measuring cup (or at least something microwave safe!)
  • something to stir with (I just used a high-tech plastic knife…glamorous, I know!)
  • cookie sheet, lined with waxed paper
  • Red decorating sugar or sprinkles, optional
Cast of Characters
Cast of Characters
Alrighty…now that we’ve gathered the ingredients, it’s time to get this party started!
Arrange your cookie cutters on the lined cookie sheet, and set them aside.
Cookie cutters, all lined up.
Cookie cutters, all lined up.
Place the candy melts or vanilla bark into the microwaveable bowl or glass measuring cup. If you are using the block of bark, break it into smaller pieces. I usually heat 4 bark bricks at a time, to keep it simple. Keep a close eye on the candy as you’re melting it, as it will scorch easily! I do 30-45 second intervals, stirring each time I open the microwave to check the consistency.  We will need to work quickly, but try to be cautious as the candy will be VERY hot!
Yummy, melty, candy.
Yummy, melty, candy.
Once the candy has melted, pour in a bit of vegetable oil. I start with a tablespoon, stir, and add more if needed. This will thin your candy – you want it pourable, but not super runny. DO NOT USE WATER!!!! Water + candy melts = DISASTER!! The water will cause your melted candy to separate and clump…this is a bad thing! This is why we need to make sure the cookie cutters are 100% dry too!
Right…now we’ve stirred our vegetable oil into the melted candy…we can add a little bit of pure peppermint extract. Just a very minimal amount – it’s potent stuff, people! I’d say start with 1/8 tsp, and add a little more if needed. Much like the water, if you add too much at once, it will cause the melted candy to coagulate. Not a pretty site! Once you’ve added enough peppermint extract to taste, add a few teaspoons of the crushed candy canes into the candy, and stir.
(This would be a perfect time to take a BIG gulp of wine…you know, to calm your nerves. :) )
Grab the melted candy and take your cute self over to the cookie cutters (it’s easier than bringing the cookie cutters to you, especially if you’ve had that gulp of wine!). With one hand, steady the cutter against the cookie sheet, and slowly pour the melted candy with candy cane bits into the cookie cutter. A tiny amount of melted candy may spew from the bottom, and that’s ok.
Sometimes the candy spews out the bottom...
Sometimes the candy spews out the bottom...
Using a plastic knife or toothpick, GENTLY spread the candy into the nooks and crannies of your cutters…be careful so you don’t move the cutter around on the tray! Fill the cutters as full as you’d like – I used the 2/3 rule, as with muffin and cupcakes.
Fill cutters 2/3 full, then top with sprinkles or sugars.
Fill cutters 2/3 full, then top with sprinkles or sugars.
Once filled, sprinkle with the red decorating sugar or sprinkles, if desired.
Repeat this process until all the cookie cutters are filled. Then GENTLY place the cookie sheet in the freezer so the candy can harden – I left mine in there probably 30-45 minutes, then transferred to the fridge until I was ready to package them.
Pat yourselves on the back, and finish that wine!
Pat yourselves on the back, and finish that wine!
Packaging is my favorite part, and I didn’t get any pictures of the finished product, because I was in a rush. I just used clear cello treat bags, tied with festive curling ribbon. You can use the patterned bags if you really need to save some time – they have some super cute ones for inexpensive at WalMart ($1.00 for 25 I think).
I promise you, this project is super easy, and the results are VERY well received. You’ll be whipping these up for all kinds of reasons – they’d make great teacher’s gifts, baby sitter gifts, hair dresser/dog walker/neighbor-you-don’t-know-very-well gift…and party favors!

Sunday, November 24, 2013

Clothespin Christmas Soldiers

Clothespin Christmas Soldiers
What you need:
  • Wooden Doll Pin Stands
  • Wooden Doll Pins
  • Toothpicks
  • White craft glue
  • Hot glue gun
  • Medium black pom-poms
  • Americana acrylic paint:
  • Cool White
  • Antique Gold
  • Ebony Black
  • Flesh Tone
  • Baby Pink
  • Santa Red
What you do:
  1. Place each doll pin into a doll pin stand to make them easier to work with.
  2. Use a paintbrush to paint the head of the doll pin with Flesh Tone.
  3. Use a paintbrush to paint the top section of the doll pin, about 1/4" above where the pin splits, with Santa Red.
  4. Use a paintbrush to paint the belt on with Cool White, just below the red jacket and above the split.
  5. Turn the doll pins upside down so that the head is inserted into the doll pin stand. Use a paintbrush to paint the remaining doll pin (legs) below the belt with Ebony Black. Use a paintbrush to paint inside the split of the doll pins.
  6. When everything is dry, remove the doll pins from the stands. Use a paintbrush to paint the stands with Antique Gold.
  7. Use a toothpick dipped in Antique Gold to add eight buttons to the black jacket in four rows of two.
  8. Use any paintbrush to add white glue to the inside of the doll pin stands and insert the soldiers into the stands.
  9. Use a toothpick to dot on Ebony Black for eyes and the end of a paintbrush to add Baby Pink for the cheeks.
  10. Carefully trim one side of a black pom-pom to make one side flatter. Use hot glue to attach the flat end of the pom-pom to the top of the soldier’s head, adding a little hot glue to the sides as well so that you can press the sides of the hat in place.

Tuesday, November 5, 2013

A Grand Gobbler


Grand Gobbler turkey made with feltPossibilities

Write seven reasons to be thankful on tiny pieces of paper, and tie one to each button on the turkey's tail. Ask family members to read them during your Thanksgiving feast.


  • 9 x 12-inch (22.9 x 30.5 cm) sheets felt:
    Felt Colors: 2- sheets each pumpkin, antique gold; 1- sheet each cinnamon, hunter green, ruby.
  • Embroidery floss: brown; gold
  • Sewing threads: black; natural linen
  • Needles: embroidery; sewing
  • Flat buttons: seven 1/2-inch (1.3 cm) assorted colors; 3/8-inch (1.0 cm) off-white: two 4-hole; one 2-hole
  • 4mm black beads, two
  • Brown/cream mini-check cotton fabric, 1 x 9-inch (2.5 x 22.9 cm) torn strip
  • Polyester fiberfill
  • Miscellaneous items: tracing paper; pencil; scissors; ruler; straight pins; hot
  • Glue gun
  • Full-size pattern (pdf file)


  1. With thread below
    the needle; up at 1,
    down at 2, up at 3.
    Pull through.
    Trace the patterns from the pattern section and cut as indicated.
  2. To make each turkey section, align and pin the matching felt pieces.
  3. See the illustration below to work blanket stitches around each section with three strands of floss. Use brown floss to stitch each tail and gold floss to stitch the body, lightly stuffing each section with fiberfill as you work.
  4. Use brown floss to work stitches around each wing; do not stuff.
  5. Use black thread to sew black bead eyes to the head where indicated by dots on the pattern.
  6. Refer to the photo to hot-glue the beak and wattle below the eyes.
  7. Use linen thread to sew an X in two 3/8-inch (1.0 cm) 4-hole buttons and a straight stitch in the 3/8-inch (1.0 cm) 2-hole button; knot ends.
  8. Glue the buttons to the turkey's breast where indicated by dots, with the 2-hole button in the center.
  9. Tie the fabric strip in a bow. Cut V’s in the ends. Glue the bow to the neck.
  10. On a flat surface, align the two tails and body upright; pin in place.
  11. Pin the wings behind the body with pointed ends down and round ends even with the neck.
  12. Hot glue the body and wings to the small tail, and the small tail to the large tail, removing pins as each section is glued.
  13. Thread each 1/2-inch (1.3 cm) button with a 6-inch (15.2 cm) length of linen thread. Tie a 1-inch (2.5 cm) bow on the front of the button; trim ends.
  14. Refer to the pattern to glue a button/bow to each tail feather where indicated by dots.

Monday, November 4, 2013

Felt Snowman & Gingerbread Men

Patterns and templates weren't available, so I had to make my own.  Click here to use the templates I made.

Here's what you'll need:
needle and thread
small beads 

With a pencil, lightly trace the pattern onto two layers of white felt.

Next, cut out the shapes.

On only the top layer of felt, sew small beads for the eyes and buttons.
(The back layer of felt will hide the stitches.)

Put both layers of felt back together again and use white embroidery floss to blanket stitch around the felt pieces.

Glue a piece of orange felt for the nose.

Then add a ribbon for the scarf.

I also made gingerbread men.  The technique and directions are the same as the snowmen.  Click here for template.

Sunday, November 3, 2013

Washcloth Snowman


washcloth snowman
Washcloth Snowman
Decorate your bathroom for Christmas with an adorable set of washcloth snowmen.
by Loretta Wood
Editor’s Note:
I just fell in love with this little snowman crowd after seeing them on Loretta’s site. I’m so happy that she has allowed me to share them with you! Inexpensive to make, but such a nice touch for decorating the bathroom at Christmas.
Washcloth Snowman – Craft supplies you will need:
  • Black Chenille stems for the arms cut 2- 3″ lengths and 2- 4″ lengths. Small twigs can be used.
  • 2- black 1/4″ pompoms or buttons of choice
  • 2-Wiggle-eyes 3/8″
  • 1-Plain white washcloth, 12″ x 12″
  • 1-White Chenille stem for shaping head or use pipe cleaners, they are the right length and cheaper.clothsm2
  • Felt or flannel for hat and scarf, red, green, or blue. A pretty knit will work also. I used a 9″ length of plaid 1″ wide ribbon, frayed up to 1/2″ on each end and it looks good.
  • Chenille stem, same color as hat. (For stove-pipe hat, please see separate directions)
  • Beans or Polly Pellits, a scoop full, for weight to help it stand up. Omit if using for an ornament.
  • Fabric tack or fabric glueNote: I find Beacon’s Fabric Tack is the best and fastest drying glue for cloth.
How to:
Note: Click on photos to enlarge
collageLay washcloth out flat and put a scoop of beans or polly pellits for weight in center of cloth.
Make 4 folds from opposite corners toward center, after folding, the cloth should be 3″ wide.
When the folds meet at center, line them up neat and run a bead of glue along the edges, if not glued properly, the beans or polly pellits will fall out.
Put a dot of glue under the ends of each side to hold beans in. Let dry for a few seconds, Take the 2 unfolded ends and bring them up together, I put a dot of glue at the ends to help hold in place.
Fold over and take the white Chenille or pipe cleaner and wrap around to form the head, tucking the ends inside to hide, this is the back side. The face will be smooth. Add the wiggle eyes and nose of your choice. I think bright buttons are cute instead of the black (coal) pompom buttons.
I used Tulip Colorpoint Paintstitching in Tangerine to form the nose. Practice on paper first hold the bottle with the tip straight down squeeze paint to make a nice size nose and as you press on the paint slowly pull the bottle up, it will make a ring effect as you back a way and come to a point as you remove the tip. I think it works great for a nose and looks more like a carrot. I let it lay on its back over night until it is dry. It will not get hard but will be firm and won’t smush.
Cut cloth of choice for hat 6″ long X 2 ½” wide, glue the short ends together to fit head. Along one edge make cuts ½” deep and about 3/16″ apart to make fringe. Turn other edge up and glue in place, making a cuff about 3/8″ deep. Using same color chenille stem gather fringe up close and wrap with the chenille and twist to hold and fluff out the fringe.snowman-hat (4K)snowman-tophat (3K)
Enlarge and view directions for Snowman Top Hat.
Cut another piece of cloth of choice ¾” wide X 12″ long Wrap around neck trim if too long and cut ends to make fringe. Or Take a 9″ length of plaid craft ribbon and fringe each end 1/2″ it looks real good. Fold in half and wrap around the neck with an over loop to hold and open the ends and put a dot of glue under the (knot) to hold in place.
Take the black chenille stems and using 1-3″ and 1-4″ twist together for the branches, take longer end of 4″ and put glue one it and tuck into fold of body. Small clean twigs are another good alternative.
If you are making a lot of snowman, check your local department store for packs of 12″ square plain white wash cloths, which might be labeled utility cloths. These are inexpensive and if you are using a lot of the washcloths, it will definitely save you money to buy in bulk.

Felt Snowmen

What You Need:
  • Felt scraps: white, three shades of green, red, orange, and light blue
  • Water-soluble marking pen
  • Embroidery floss: black, orange, blue, green, and red
  • Polyester fiberfill
  • Crafts glue
  • 2 small pom-poms
  • Ribbon for hanging loops
Download snowmen pattern
Download embroidery stitches instructions
How to Make It:
  1. Trace the snowmen pattern pieces from the pattern onto tracing paper and cut out the shapes. Referring to the photo, trace the shapes on assorted colors of felt using the marking pen. Cut out all shapes, except for the snowmen fronts. Note: Use two strands of floss for whipstitches and three strands for all other embroidery stitches.
  2. Create the Faces: With black floss, work French knots for eyes and outline stitches with a small straight stitch at the ends for smiles. With orange floss, whipstitch the carrot noses in place. Cut out the snowmen fronts.
  3. Assemble the Snowmen: With wrong sides together and blue floss, blanket-stitch the fronts to the backs, inserting small amounts of fiberfill before sewing the shapes closed.
  4. Add the Hats and Scarves: Use coordinating floss to whipstitch the hat stripes to the hats. With wrong sides facing, blanket-stitch the hat fronts and backs together along the sides. Slip the hats on the snowmen's heads and blanket-stitch or glue in place. Tack or glue a pom-pom to the tip of each hat. Tie scarves around the necks. Add ribbon loops for hanging.

Bundled-up Snow Family

What You Need
  • Unfinished wooden snowmen: two 6-1/2-inch and one each of 8- and 10-inch
  • Sandpaper: 100- and 150-grit
  • Tack cloth
  • Latex primer
  • Paintbrushes: 1-inch flat, small round, and stencil
  • Glossy acrylic paints: white and black
  • Stencil paint creme: blue (We used Delta Stencil Magic Paint Creme: Cottage Blue.)
  • Blue acrylic paint
  • Wool felt: purple, green, red, and blue
  • Sewing needle and matching sewing thread
  • Fabric paint: light green, purple, and white
  • Pinking shears and scallop-edge scissors
  • Buttons: three each of 3/4-inch blue and red, three 1/2-inch purple, two 1/2-inch green, and one 3/4-inch snowflake
  • Mandarin Orange Fimo Soft polymer clay
  • T-pin
  • Metal baking sheet
  • Aluminum foil
  • Glue gun and hotmelt adhesive
How to Make It
  1. Sand all surfaces of the snowmen with 100- and then 150-grit sandpaper. Remove the sanding dust with a tack cloth. Apply primer; let the primer dry. Lightly sand again and wipe clean. Paint all surfaces of the snowmen glossy white. When the paint is dry, use a stencil brush and Cottage Blue to lightly shade the edges of each snowman. Let dry. Thin blue acrylic paint with water and use it to add stitch lines 1/4 inch from the edges of the snowmen.
  2. For the purple snowman, cut a 1-1/2-x-14-inch scarf strip and an 8-1/2-x-4-inch hat rectangle from purple felt. Cut 1-inch slits for fringed scarf ends. Overlap the 4-inch edges of the hat to fit the head; sew the overlap together. Cut 1-inch slits along the top edge of hat to fringe; tie thread around the hat just below the fringe. Fold up 1 inch at the bottom edge for cuff. Use purple fabric paint to add dots to the scarf ends and cuff; let dry.
  3. For the green snowman, use pinking shears to cut a 1-1/2-x-14-inch scarf strip and an 8-1/2-x-4-inch hat rectangle from green felt. Overlap the 4-inch edges of the hat to fit the head; sew overlap together. Tie thread around the hat 1 inch from the top. For the cuff, fold up 1 inch on he bottom edge. Use light green fabric paint to add stripes to the scarf ends and cuff; let dry.
  4. For the red snowman, cut a 2-x-18-inch scarf strip, one 7-inch hat circle, and one 3-1/2-x-10-inch hat brim from red felt. Trim the short ends of the scarf with scallop-edge scissors. Make running stitches close to the edge of the hat circle; pull the thread ends to fit it on the snowman's head. Knot the thread and evenly distribute the gathers. Sew the gathered edge to one long edge of the brim, overlapping the brim at the back; sew the overlap together. Fold the brim twice to measure 1 3/4 inches wide. Paint white zigzag lines on the scarf ends and hat brim; let dry.
  5. For the blue snowman, cut a 2-1/4-x-19-inch scarf strip and an 11-x-7-inch hat rectangle from blue felt. To fringe, cut 1-1/4-inch slits at each end of the scarf. Overlap the 7-inch edges of the hat to fit the snowman's head; sew the overlap together. Cut 1-inch slits along the top edge of the hat to fringe; tie thread around the hat just below the fringe. Fold up 1 inch twice at the bottom edge for a cuff. Glue a snowflake button to the hat center front. Knead the clay until it is smooth and pliable. Form it into a cone-shape nose for each snowman, about 1 to 1 1/2 inches long and 3/8 to 1/2 inch wide at the base. Twist the nose slightly, swirling the clay to resemble a carrot. Press the base against a flat surface. Press a T-pin into the clay to make grooves, going around the nose. Follow the manufacturer's instructions to bake the noses on an aluminum foil-covered baking sheet. Let the noses cool.
  6. Refer to the photographs to finish each snowman. Attach the nose and buttons with hot glue. Dip the end of a paintbrush into black glossy paint, and dot the eyes; let dry. Place the hat on the head and secure with hot glue, stuffing with a small amount of fiberfill if desired. Tie the scarf around the neck, and tack in place with hot glue.

Mr Snowman (Crochet)

Materials Required:
6 skeins White and
1 ball Kelly Green and
2 skeins each Bright Red and White
1 skein each Burnt Orange, Black and Golden Brown
Steel crochet hook No. 7
1 pipe cleaner
1 9-inch round stick about ¼ inch in diameter
HEAD-Hold large crochet hook horizontally on 2 ½ x 5 inch cardboard. Wind 1 skein White “AUNT LYDIA’S” HEAVY RUG YARN over 2 ½ inch part of board. With large crochet hook pull three 22-inch lengths of yarn halfway through opening and tie. Remove cardboard. Trim into ball for head.
BODY-Work 2 more pompons in same manner. Sew these 2 pompons together at tying point. Trim into a ball for center of body. Work 3 more pompons in same manner, sew together at tying point. Trim into a ball for lower part of body. Take the free lengths of yarn of head pompon, draw through the middle of the center body section and lower part of body.
Tie all ends together. Insert stick through center of entire snow man.
With Green starting at cuff, ch 92, sc in 2nd st from hook, 1 sc in each remaining st of ch, join being careful not to twist work.
2nd Round-l sc in each sc, join, cut thread.
3rd Round-Attach Red and work 1 sc in each sc, join, cut thread. Working in same manner work 2 rounds Green, 1 round White, 1 round Red, 1 round White, 2 rounds Green, 1 round Red and 2 rounds Green.
14th Round-Ch 3, counts as 1 dc, 1 dc in each sc, join and turn this and following rounds. Work 2 more rounds even in dc.
17th Round-Working in dc, decrease in every 9th and 10th st (to decrease: *thread over hook, insert in next st, pull through and work off 2 loops, repeat from * once, thread over and work off all loops at one time).
18th Round-Decrease in every 8th and 9th st.
19th Round-Decrease in every 6th and 7th st. Work 2 rounds even. Repeat the last 3 rounds 7 times.
43rd Round-Decrease 3 sts. Work 1 round even. Repeat the last 2 rounds 3 times.
Next 2 Rounds-Same as 41st round, cut thread leaving a length for sewing. Sew opening closed. With wrong side of 1st round toward you, attach Green and work 1 sc in each st, join, cut thread. Fold colored section upward.
TASSEL-Cut 10-4 inch lengths of each color. Tie at center then tie about ¼ inch from 1st tying. Sew to top of hat:
SCARF-With Green ch 15, dc in 4th st from hook, 1 dc in each remaining st of ch, turn.
2nd Row-Ch 3, 1 dc in each dc, turn. Repeat last row until work measures 16 inches, cut thread.
FRINGE-Cut 2-4 inch lengths of thread, fold in half, loop through a st, pull ends through loop and pull tightly. Working in same manner arrange colors as follows-2 Green, 1 Red, 2 Green, 1 White, 1 Red, 1 White, 2 Green, 1 Red and 2 Green.
NOSE-With Orange ch 13, sc in 2nd st from hook, 1 sc in each remaining st of ch, ch 1 to turn all rows.
2nd Row-Working in sc, work 2 sc in each sc. Work 1 row even.
4th Row-Decrease in every 2nd and 3rd st across row. Work 1 row even. Repeat the last 2 rows 4 times.
14th Row-Decrease 2 sts, cut thread leaving a length. Sew long edges together. Fill with kapok.
EYES AND BUTTONS-With Black ch 2, 8 sc in 2nd st from hook, do not join.
2nd Round-2 sc in each sc, join, cut thread. Work 4 more circles in same manner.
MOUTH-With Red ch 15, sc in 2nd st from hook, sc in next st, 1 sdc in each of the next 2 sts (sdc: thread over hook, insert in st, pull loop through, thread over and work off all loops at one time), 1 dc in each of the next 2 sts 1 trc in each of the next 2 sts, 1 dc in each of the next 2 sts, 1 sdc in each of the next 2 sts, 1 sc in each remaining st, cut thread.
Sew eyes, nose, mouth and buttons in position as illustrated.
BROOM-Wind Golden Brown tightly over a pipe cleaner, fasten ends with tape or glue, bend one end about ½ inch. Over a 1 ½ inch cardboard wind Golden Brown 90 times, slip length of thread through one end and fasten to bent end of pipe cleaner, twist end of pipe cleaner tightly to hold broom in place. Tie broom about ⅜ inch from 1st tying. Insert through body as illustrated.

Fitted Crib Sheet Sewing Tutorial

My grandma taught me how to sew and then gave me her 1970s sewing machine but I’m no expert. If I can sew these you can too! Let me just warn you now that I may not use the correct sewing terminology but I tried to make up for it by adding lots of pictures. P.S. excuse any random dirtiness on my floors. I have three kids and no dog to pick up the mess.

Fitted Crib Sheet Sewing Tutorial

What you need:

  • Fabric (I used flannel)
  • Elastic
  • Sewing Machine
  • Thread
  • Iron and ironing board
  • Scissors

To find out how much fabric you need measure the mattress and the width of the mattress. Since this mattress was only two inches wide I took the length+width and added 6 more inches for the seems and to allow for the sheet to tuck under. I did the same thing for the height.

Fitted Crib Sheet Sewing Tutorial

Fitted Crib Sheet Sewing Tutorial

Then you cut out a square from each corner. I cut 7x7 inch squares out so that it left a little breathing room for the corner seems. If I cut 8x8 inch squares (the width + the 6 inches I added in) I might not be able to stretch it over the mattress when I finished.

Fitted Crib Sheet Sewing Tutorial

Next take the two edges (marked below with arrows) and put them together so that the right sides of the fabric are touching and pin.

Fitted Crib Sheet Sewing Tutorial

Fitted Crib Sheet Sewing Tutorial

Do this to all four corners.

Fitted Crib Sheet Sewing Tutorial

Take it to your sewing machine and sew each one. Then press the seems open.

Fitted Crib Sheet Sewing Tutorial

Fitted Crib Sheet Sewing Tutorial

Now fold the bottom edge over 1/4 inch and press along the entire sheet.


Fold again and repeat. Since my elastic is 5/8 of an inch I folded my fabric over a little more than an inch this time.

Fitted Crib Sheet Sewing Tutorial

Take it to your sewing machine and hem all along the edge leaving an few inch gap to thread your elastic through. I always pin the end of my elastic because it makes it easier to push it through. The size of your elastic will again depend on the size of your mattress. I took my length+length+height+height and added a few inches, In the end I had enough left over that I could gauge where I wanted to cut off the excess.

Fitted Crib Sheet Sewing Tutorial

Once your finished threading it though put the two ends of the elastic together with right sides touching and sew them together. Tuck them in and sew up your hole.

Fitted Crib Sheet Sewing Tutorial

Fitted Crib Sheet Sewing Tutorial

Now you are finished. The large piece of fabric you started with should look something like what you see below. Time to stretch it across the mattress and put that baby to sleep!

Fitted Crib Sheet Sewing Tutorial

Fitted Crib Sheet Sewing Tutorial

Fitted Crib Sheet Sewing Tutorial

I found this on:

snowman magnets

Snowman Magnets

Flat marble magnets are all the rage, but many are made using Mod Podge and paper. This time we are going to paint on the faces. We won’t be painting the front, which will receive the most abuse from being moved around the fridge. Instead we’ll paint on the back and preserve those cute faces to be used over and over again!
To make these snowman magnets you will need the following supplies:
  • Clear flat marbles
  • 1/2″ round magnets
  • Acrylic craft paint: white, black, and orange
  • Matte varnish, Mod Podge or other clear sealer or finish
  • E6000 Clear Multi-Purpose Adhesive Glue
Snowman MagnetsTo begin, rinse and dry your marbles to ensure there’s no residue or dirt on them.
Snowman MagnetsTurn the magnets over so that the flat side is facing up. Use a toothpick to add the orange noses first.
Snowman MagnetsUse a toothpick to dot on black eyes and mouths.
Snowman MagnetsLet them dry completely, two hours should be safe.
Snowman MagnetsAdd a layer of white paint over the faces and let dry.
Snowman MagnetsWhen that layer has dried, add a second layer of white paint and let dry. I placed mine in an empty paint palette to keep them all together.
When that paint has dried, add a layer of clear varnish. After that has dried, used E6000 to glue the magnets on.
Snowman Magnets